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Tackling concrete is no joke. Whether you’re hanging shelves in a garage, anchoring a ledger board for a deck, or running conduit in a basement, the wrong tool will leave you frustrated, tired, and with a pile of dull drill bits. You need a tool that doesn’t just spin—it punches.
| Product | Name | Best For | Power | Price & Link |
|---|---|---|---|---|
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DEWALT DWD520 | Overall Performance | 10 Amp (Corded) | Check Price |
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Makita XPH14Z 18V | Cordless Power | 18V Brushless | Check Price |
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Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2804-20 | Professional Trades | 18V Brushless | Check Price |
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SKIL HD182001 | Budget DIY | 7.5 Amp (Corded) | Check Price |
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Before we dive into the reviews, let’s clear up a common point of confusion. A standard drill driver simply rotates. It’s perfect for wood, metal, and drywall. A hammer drill does that, but it also adds a rapid, high-frequency hammering action (thousands of “blows per minute”) directly behind the drill bit. Imagine a tiny jackhammer married to a drill. This percussive action pulverizes the concrete in front of the bit, allowing the flutes to clear away the debris.
Trying to use a regular drill on cured concrete is a recipe for disaster. You’ll burn out your motor, dull your expensive masonry bits in seconds, and barely make a dent. For any project involving concrete, brick, or block, a hammer drill isn’t a luxury—it’s a necessity.
It’s also important not to confuse a hammer drill with its bigger, meaner cousin: the SDS Rotary Hammer. While a hammer drill uses a standard chuck and a mechanical hammering mechanism, a rotary hammer uses a special “Slotted Drive System” (SDS) bit and a piston mechanism for a much more powerful, slower, piston-driven blow. For drilling large diameter holes (over 1/2″) or light demolition, you need a rotary hammer. For most DIY and many professional tasks like setting anchors up to 1/2″, a hammer drill is the perfect tool for the job.
This DEWALT is the first real hammer drill I ever owned, and there’s a reason it’s still a top seller. This is a workhorse. Last fall, I was tasked with installing a series of shelves in a client’s poured concrete basement. We had to drill over 50 3/8-inch holes for sleeve anchors. The DWD520 didn’t even break a sweat. The 10-amp motor provides relentless torque; you can feel the power as soon as you pull the trigger. It doesn’t bog down, even in older, aggregate-heavy concrete. The two-speed range is a fantastic feature—I use the low-speed, high-torque setting to start the hole cleanly, then switch to high-speed, high-BPM to power through.
The build is classic DEWALT: robust and durable. The heavy-duty metal chuck feels indestructible, and while some prefer keyless, I appreciate the absolute grip of a keyed chuck for high-torque applications. It ensures the bit never slips. The 360-degree locking side handle is essential for bracing against the tool’s power. Without it, the torque could easily wrench the drill from your hands if the bit binds.
For a no-nonsense tool that will last for years and power through anything you throw at it, the DWD520 is my top recommendation.
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For years, I was skeptical of cordless tools for heavy-duty concrete work. The Makita XPH14Z changed my mind. I used this drill to install railings on a concrete porch, and the freedom of not dragging a cord around was a game-changer. The brushless motor is the star here; it’s incredibly efficient and delivers 1,250 in.lbs. of max torque. That’s a staggering number for a cordless tool. It felt every bit as capable as a mid-range corded model for drilling 1/4″ and 3/8″ holes.
The ergonomics are classic Makita—comfortable, well-balanced, and it just feels right in your hand. The all-metal keyless chuck is high quality and provides a solid grip. What surprised me most was the battery life. Using a 5.0Ah battery, I was able to drill dozens of holes on a single charge. Makita’s LXT system is one of the best, with fast-charging batteries and a huge line of compatible tools. The only time I felt it struggle was on a deep, 1/2″ hole in very dense concrete, where a corded model would have a slight edge.
If you demand the highest cordless performance and are already in (or willing to join) the Makita LXT ecosystem, this is the drill to get.
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Milwaukee tools are a common sight on professional job sites, and the M18 FUEL hammer drill shows why. It’s a direct competitor to the Makita, and the choice often comes down to brand preference. What I immediately noticed about the 2804-20 is its compact size. It’s noticeably shorter than many rivals, which makes a huge difference when you’re drilling between studs or in a tight crawlspace. But don’t let the size fool you—this thing is aggressive.
The POWERSTATE™ brushless motor is incredibly responsive. The drill feels like it wants to leap forward into the concrete. I used this to set Tapcon screws for electrical boxes on a commercial job, and it was lightning fast. The speed and power are on par with the Makita, delivering a formidable 1,200 in-lbs of torque. Milwaukee’s REDLINK PLUS™ intelligence is another key feature; it prevents you from overheating the tool and battery, which is a lifesaver on long, demanding days. The anti-kickback control is also a top-tier safety feature, instantly shutting the tool down if the bit binds.
For the professional who values compact size, advanced safety features, and raw power, the Milwaukee M18 FUEL is a top contender.
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Not everyone needs a $200+ professional-grade tool. For the dedicated DIYer who needs to tackle a concrete project a few times a year, the SKIL HD182001 is an incredible value. I’ll be honest, I was skeptical. But for a recent project mounting a hose reel to a brick facade, I decided to give the SKIL a shot. I was pleasantly surprised. The 7.5-amp motor has plenty of guts for drilling holes up to 3/8-inch in standard concrete and brick.
It feels solid in the hand, and the heavy-duty keyed chuck inspires confidence that the bit isn’t going anywhere. It has a variable speed trigger and a locking side-handle, features you’d expect on more expensive models. It’s not as refined as the DEWALT—it’s louder, vibrates a bit more, and lacks the dual-speed gearbox. But for the price? It’s tough to beat. It got the job done without any fuss. For the homeowner who needs to drill into a basement wall or concrete slab occasionally, this drill provides 90% of the performance for a fraction of the cost of a pro model.
If you’re on a budget but need a reliable tool for occasional concrete drilling, the SKIL is the smartest purchase you can make.
Check Price on AmazonChoosing the right tool involves understanding the key specifications. Here’s what you need to look for:
Corded: The biggest advantages are unlimited runtime and maximum sustained power. A 10-amp corded drill will generally outperform an 18V cordless drill on the most demanding, continuous tasks. They are also typically less expensive for the same power level. The downside is obvious: you’re tethered by a cord, which limits mobility.
Best for: Repetitive work in one location, heavy-duty drilling, budget-conscious buyers.
Cordless: The primary benefit is ultimate portability. Modern brushless cordless drills (like the Makita and Milwaukee above) now rival the power of many corded models. They are perfect for jobs where you’re moving around a lot or don’t have easy access to power. The downside is the cost (batteries and chargers are expensive) and finite runtime.
Best for: Professionals on the go, quick jobs, work in remote areas.
For corded drills, power is measured in Amps. A higher amp rating means a more powerful motor that can handle tougher materials without bogging down. For serious concrete work, look for 7.5 amps at a minimum, with 9-10 amps being ideal. For cordless drills, power is indicated by Voltage. 18V (or 20V Max) is the professional standard and provides ample power. More important in cordless is the motor type (brushless is more powerful and efficient) and the battery capacity (measured in Amp-hours or Ah; higher Ah means longer runtime).
This is the speed of the hammering action. A higher BPM generally means faster drilling in concrete, as it pulverizes the material more quickly. Look for drills that can achieve at least 30,000 BPM, with top-tier models reaching over 50,000 BPM.
The chuck is what holds the drill bit. A 1/2-inch chuck is standard for serious hammer drills, allowing you to use larger, heavy-duty bits. A keyed chuck requires a special key to tighten and provides the most secure grip, which is ideal for high-torque drilling. A keyless chuck allows for faster, tool-free bit changes but may occasionally slip under extreme load.
These tools are powerful and demand respect. Always follow these rules:
No. A regular drill only spins and lacks the percussive action needed to break up concrete. You will make very little progress, quickly destroy your drill bit, and risk burning out your drill’s motor. You must use a hammer drill or a rotary hammer.
A hammer drill uses a mechanical system with two ribbed discs to create a high-frequency, low-impact hammering action. It’s best for drilling holes up to 1/2-inch. A rotary hammer uses a more complex piston mechanism to deliver a slower, much more powerful hammering blow. It requires special SDS bits and is the right tool for larger holes and light-duty chipping or demolition.
For effective concrete drilling, look for a hammer drill capable of at least 30,000 BPM (Blows Per Minute). Higher-end models can exceed 50,000 BPM, which translates to faster drilling speeds in hard materials. More BPM is generally better and faster.
You must use masonry drill bits specifically designed for percussive drilling. Look for bits with a carbide tip, which is extremely hard and can withstand the abuse of hitting concrete. For hammer drills, standard round-shank carbide-tipped masonry bits are used. Do not use wood or metal bits.
Drilling into concrete requires the right tool, and any of the hammer drills on this list will serve you far better than a standard drill. Your choice comes down to your specific needs and budget.
Choose the right tool, prioritize safety, and you’ll turn that impenetrable wall into a finished project. Happy drilling!
All product information and specifications are based on data available as of mid-2025. Please check the manufacturer and Amazon product pages for the most current details. The opinions expressed here are based on the author’s personal and professional experience.